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Here's a few well recognised basic rigs for reference including a brief description of the best situation for each. Click on the rig type below for details or scroll through the selection.

Basic Float Rig - Simple Ledger Rig - Fixed Ledger Rig - Paternoster Float Rig - Rotten Bottom Rig - Sliding Float Ledger Rig - Trotting Rig - Floating Bait Rig - Pop Up Rig - Feeder Rig - Spinning Rig - Plumb Rig - Artificial Bait Rig

RIG 13 - ARTIFICIAL BAIT RIG
When rigging a jelly worm or plastic shad bait, you will need to get the hook positioning right so that the bait falls well in the water, doesn't spin and provides you with a good hook set when the bait is taken.
Rigging a worm
Pass the point of the hook through the nose of the jellyworm and out of the body about a cm away from the entry point. Push the hook shank all the way through so that the eye of the hook is right up next to the jellyworm. Turn the hook through 180 degrees so that the point is then facing down onto the body of the jellyworm again and place the hook into its body as shown making sure that the final result is a straight jellyworm.

Rigging a Shad
Using a wide gape hook, pass the hook point through the nose of the Shad as with a worm and feed the Shad onto the shank of the hook all the way until the hook is able to exit the body in the centre of the Shad's back. If the hook exited the Shad through it's belly the Shad is likely to spin on the retrieve.

If you find that the Shad still spins you could use a lead head hook (a hook with a weight at the top of the shank as shown in the picture) which should stop the spinning.

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